Homemade pizza night

Step 1: Take the dough out of the fridge. Heat the oven to 475°F with racks in the lower and upper thirds; the dough warms up while it heats, and warm dough stretches without shrinking back.

Step 2: Slice the mushrooms and the pepper.

Step 3: Rub 1 tablespoon of olive oil over each of two sheet pans. Split the dough in two (or into smaller ones for kids) and stretch it out on the pans. If it shrinks back, leave it 10 minutes and try again; it relaxes.

Step 4: Spread on the sauce, then the mozzarella, then the pepperoni, mushrooms and pepper. Let everyone top their own part.

Step 5: Bake both pans at once, one on each rack, swapping them halfway, 14 to 18 minutes in all, until the crust is deep golden underneath and the cheese bubbles. Let it rest 2 minutes before slicing.